First of all, I'd like to start this belated post about events occurring a week ago by sending my most heartfelt sentiments to Kristin McKnight on her wedding day :) I'm sure by this time the vows have been said and my faithful Delphian friend is now a married woman. I can only wish her the greatest happiness in her married life!!!!! I am so proud, but so sorry I missed such an important day :*(
Now, more catching up...
SATURDAY, AUG. 16th
Mom and I had the wonderful privilige of partaking in a Neuchatel tradition--visiting the downtown market on Saturday mornings. Letting Remi lead the way, we weaved our way through a large crowd of patrons and locals who browsed the streets where cars and bikes once drove the night before. There were local fruit and vegetable vendors, butchers, candy makers, and cheesemakers (Remi obliged us by buying the Swiss cheese made by our ancestors in Bern... he would later comment that he despises this cheese as it is "too sugary" for him). We would eat this cheese with dinner later in the day.
After Remi had bought the weekend's food needs and stashed them safely in his backpack (which, like many European men, Remi had with him all the time), we pulled up a chair at a quaint outdoor cafe... Lovely, yes... but in the direct sunlight on a hot day. Blech. I was quickly refreshed by an amazing white wine spritzer made with green tea. It was tempting to down the whole drink, as it was probably among the tastiest drinks I've ever had... but I forced myself to drink in moderation, not wanting to stumble my way back to the flat (lol). We were soon joined by a young girl (mid-20's) named Jennifer. She was an absolutely gorgeous girl with long dark hair and naturally flawless skin... she resembled Brittany Zion in many ways, now that I'm remembering her. I'm not sure exactly how she knew Remi (and I'm not exactly sure I'd want to know lol) but she was very pleasant. Our conversation came to an end when she had to return to work at Lacoste.
Not a minute after Jennifer left, we were met by a random man wearing dreadlocks and a tan suit jacket. He spoke Spanish, and I'm still not 100 percent sure of his name--our conversation was (obviously) limited. But, like most people in this little village, he was friends with Remi. The awkwardness didn't last long, because we were soon met by Remi's ex-wife, Anne. I have often wondered what it was that led them to divorce after 3 children and 15 some years of marriage... it's certainly none of my business. They seem to get along fine now. However, in our conversation, Anne mentioned Remi's perfectionistic qualities... I might guess living with a perfectionist could be insufferable (although I'm not one to talk lol). She went on to say that his need for perfection is why he gave up his piano career... he would whip out a piece "for fun" but spend some 8 hours getting it "just right" until he finally gave up with frustration. I'm sure this explains his spotless house (seemingly contradictory to the fact that TWO MEN live there).
Anyway, Anne... a pleasant and well spoken woman, not to mention very pretty in the face and figure. From what Remi tells me, she is much like her sister Jacqueline in that she is constantly going back to school to further her education... always studying. (I fear my own fate may be as such). For those of you who know Mrs. Fuller--Anne had a striking resemblance. Like, eerily similar. And she smelled of candy.
SPEAKING OF CANDY ;) Anne accompanied us to the local Choclatier "Walder" -- a gem of Neuchatel from what mom and I were told. She helped us select the best of the wide and varied selection of "bon-bons"... dark chocolate truffles (which, I'm sure Eric will be happy to learn, did NOT surpass the "Balls of Desire"), caramels, and ginger root covered in chocolate (a shout out to Claire Allen on this one--remember Bach Fest? You let me try those ginger candies? I'm addicted!).
We returned to the flat, finished packing up our suitcases, and Remi once again treated us to lunch. We then prepared for the voyage to Remi's "Chalet in the Mountains" which included adding layers of clothes, long pants, and shoes suitable for hiking--we would be going nearly 1000 m. up into the mountains of Switzerland to Remi's vacation home. We spend 45 minutes driving up and up and up in the car (where I once again found myself nodding off... oooh jet lag) on a one-lane, twisty-turny back road.
After a small hike, we arrived at the charming little Swiss cabin in what seemed like the middle of nowhere. No running water--only pumped. No electric--only solar panels. No phone. Just peace and quiet (except for the sound of the persistent "dinging" of the cowbells... cows seemed to be roaming freely). When we began our hike on the grassy mountainside I was immediately inclined to spin around--my arms extended outward and my face up to the sky--singing "The hiiiiills are alive with the Sound of Music!" ... and I did. Quite loudly and triumphantly, actually. Still savoring my Julie Andrews moment, I could sense that Remi was slightly confused. Perhaps concerned for my mental health. Either way, I got my Julie Andrews moment. And my life is complete :)
It was on top of this mountain that I finally got my view of the Alps... breathtaking is an understatement for the view we had there. Despite the brisk cold and biting winds, it was serene and almost spiritual being up so high and so isolated. And I don't think I've ever inhaled air so crisp and fresh... absolutely pristine air (save the intermittent whifs of cow dung). We continuted our intense hike... for an hour and a half we climbed ridiculous inclines, meanwhile dodging the everpresent cow patties and trying not to disturb the cows and steer that often crossed our path. Remi remarked upon returning to the chalet that when I have a fiancee I am welcome to visit him in Neuchatel, and then spend a week in the vacation home. "Honeymoon, hien?!" he said with a wink and a nudge of the elbow. A charming offer, indeed! Any takers?! Haha ;) I think running water and electric should be a requirement for the honeymoon, but thanks Remi!
We then ventured back to the flat, played some piano, chilled a bit, and then sat down to our last dinner in Neuchatel with Remi and Cormac. We indulged in the last of the wine that mom and I had grown quite fond of--Muscat. It was incredibly smooth and sweet. Remi reluctantly allowed us to drink it, although frustrated that we would DARE to drink white wine with a dish that clearly required red wine--Ah! What a crime! Haha... but there you have it... two non-drinking Americans who have no taste in wine. But I'm learning as I go along.
Mom and I said our goodbyes to Remi and Cormac at the train station, all of our (incredibly heavy and burdening) luggage in tow. I found myself surprisingly sad, watching them wave goodbye... when we met just a few days earlier, we were practically strangers... but we all knew that we might never see each other again, and I really did feel like family. Remi, staying true to the jokester that he is, ran after the train waving a hankie, like in the old '40's movies :) Hahaha, what a great image to be left with.
We would then board the train to Rome, Italy... a trip taking approx. 8 hours. And so began our first experience with "the sleeper train." An experience I hope to never have to re-live (although I regret to say I will on my way to Vienna). Mom and I were lucky enough to have a first class cabin, which included 6 fold out beds, in bunk style. OF COURSE, I get the top bunk. Not only is there barely two feet between the bed and the ceiling, but the ladder is not connected to the bed itself. And here mom and I are, with 4 large pieces of luggage (cut me some slack, I'm moving to another country) and two carry-ons, trying to fit all of our luggage in a cabin we share with 4 other people. I had to sleep curled up in a ball because I had a piece luggage at my feet and one at my head. Needless to say I slept terribly.
Luckily, prior to the sleeping part, we were able to meet our cabin-mates. Two were Japanese boys, in their mid twenties, who were travelling for 6 weeks across Europe. The other two were college frat boys from Kansas, taking one last "backpacking hoorah" before stepping out into the real world and starting careers. They were pleasant to talk with, although we all were just grateful to find another English speaking person to converse with!
My next two posts will be of our two days in Rome, Italy :) Stay tuned!
Saturday, August 23, 2008
Friday, August 22, 2008
The First Step to Catching You Up!
Hello faithful readers! I apologize for not having posted a darn thing in 6 days, but I've had to deal with a mismatched adapter, and then a fickle internet connection. I would have occupied a computer at an internet cafe for a few hours... but the bill is quite expensive.
Anyway--I will start where I left off, and keep each separate post as a separate day. Sorry for any confusion, but I really want to catch you up on all of the excitement!!! Just to warn you, I will write as if the day had just happened :)
DAY AT LUCERNE
Today, we woke to much colder winds and more overcast skies. After getting the sleepies out of our eyes and preparing for the day, Remi drove us to "la gare," the Neuchatel train station, qutie anxiously. He was convinced that we would miss our train and that our plans would be ruined... in retrospect his hurried manner reminded me a bit of Juan--our tour guide from NPHS's trip to France 4 years ago: "On y va! On y va!" he would say as he would breeze past us all, like he was on a mission.
We thankfully made the train, and so began the day in which every moving mode of transportation caused me to immediately fall into a comatose sleep. (lol!)
It was nice to have a few hours with just mom and I; not having to worry about striking up conversations, forcing ourselves to drink multiple glasses of wine that would be offered, not having to exhaust my mind by translating and scraping the ends of my long term memory to talk with our hosts... granted, being in their company has been wonderful--but being by ourselves seemed relieving at the time.
Our trip to Lucerne was, primarily, to see the Alps. Of course, just by the mere fact that it was raining we knew that the clouds would certainly foil any hope that we had on seeing such sights. Upon arriving in Lucerne, our first priority was locating a clothing store within the upscale-version-New-Towne-Mall shopping center found inside the trainstation (this is normal in most large European train stations) to buy a raincoat slash sweater. While packing for our trip to Europe, we had anticipated Ohio weather... 70's... capris, short sleeves, maybe a pair of slacks or two... but the unusual weather was at least 15 degrees colder than usual... not to mention the rain and brisk wind gusts. The seemingly simple task of buying a sweater became an hour long escapade of going in and out of stores--not finding what we needed (or when we did, were so offended by the price tag). Mom bought a light jacket and I bought a thick zip up sweatshirt.
We toured the lakeside via boat (where we enjoyed the upperdeck first class seats, thank you very much!), enjoyed what we could see of the village and castles while indulging in apple tartes and peppermint tea. Of course, as all moving vehicles seemed to enduce, I slept :) On this boat were a couple from England... I would place them in their upper 60s. However, it wasn't until we asked the gentleman to take our picture that we noticed he looked EXACTLY like Prince Charles--the ears, the hair, the voice... EVERYTHING was a perfect match. It made me wonder if perhaps all British older men look like Prince Charles.
After docking the boat, we walked around the city in the rain. We gazed upon the oldest bridge in Switzerland (where people come from all over to be married on) and gawked and gasped at the insanely priced Swiss watches (some priced over 17,000 Euro!!!!!).
We took the train back where Remi met us to take us back to the "castle" (as we had begun to refer to it). After washing and warming up, Jacqueline once again joined us for dinner at the flat. Remi made us pasta, in preparation for what we'd encounter in Italy: slightly undercooked to the American palette. He whipped up this amazing spiced tomatoe sauce from scratch, which I simply could not get enough of... there was, of course, cheese, bread, salad, salami, and the California Ravenwood wine we had bought Remi as a host gift.
During dinner, Remi asked if mom and I were perhaps part-Swiss, part-Camel. Mom and I were puzzled by this question until he further explained that we had such trouble finishing our wine that he thought we had it stored somewhere in us! We had a good laugh about that. It was also during this dinner that I discovered how difficult it is for non-Americans to say the word "thirty." Jacqueline and Remi went on and on about how hard it is to make the "th" sound (English is one of the few languages who even use that sound) and kept saying "Tirty." I suppose it's the same as the trouble we Americans have learning foreign language sounds... in French it's the throaty "r's" and in German it's the achlauts and the ichlauts, and the umlauts.
Being surrounded by the French language and this particular Swiss dialect, I was able to catch on quick. The 4 years of high school french came whooshing back, and after a few days I could carry on a decent conversation with Remi. I still am awaiting the day I have a dream in French, although I fear that day is loooong away (particularly having to live in a German speaking country for 4 months....). This Swiss-French dialect is slightly different than the French I learned in high school--not every syllable is as defined and there is more accentuation on the gluttural "r's".
After dinner it was out to the Festival again. The original plan was to stay in Lucerne and attend the world renowned Lucerne Music Festival. HOWEVER, the only tickets that were left were 290 Euro... Sorry bout ya, but it ain't happenin! Then, we wanted to go to a free concert in Neuchatel, in this acoustically amazing "cave" of sorts--pas de place--no more seats. Then, Jacqueline's partner, Christophe (who works for an art museum) recommended we go to a contemporary music festival. BUUUUT by the time we got there, it was over, and the artists and musicians were standing around enjoying champagne and beers with their patrons. I did get a chance to walk around the art exhibit for a bit... and I did enjoy some interesting contemporary art, including strewn paper airplanes thrown at a bullseye and a molded clay penis. Yes, you heard me.
Remi took us on a quick nighttime tour of the city--to the ports, the lake, the courtyards (which were full of lovers, let me tell you it was gross) and the houses, the castles, and the mansions that frequented this particular street.
Then it was back home and off to bed... preparing for an early morning at the market and a trip to Remi's chalet in the mountains.
Stay tuned to the next few posts where I will catch you up further :)
Love and miss you all very much!!!
Laura
Anyway--I will start where I left off, and keep each separate post as a separate day. Sorry for any confusion, but I really want to catch you up on all of the excitement!!! Just to warn you, I will write as if the day had just happened :)
DAY AT LUCERNE
Today, we woke to much colder winds and more overcast skies. After getting the sleepies out of our eyes and preparing for the day, Remi drove us to "la gare," the Neuchatel train station, qutie anxiously. He was convinced that we would miss our train and that our plans would be ruined... in retrospect his hurried manner reminded me a bit of Juan--our tour guide from NPHS's trip to France 4 years ago: "On y va! On y va!" he would say as he would breeze past us all, like he was on a mission.
We thankfully made the train, and so began the day in which every moving mode of transportation caused me to immediately fall into a comatose sleep. (lol!)
It was nice to have a few hours with just mom and I; not having to worry about striking up conversations, forcing ourselves to drink multiple glasses of wine that would be offered, not having to exhaust my mind by translating and scraping the ends of my long term memory to talk with our hosts... granted, being in their company has been wonderful--but being by ourselves seemed relieving at the time.
Our trip to Lucerne was, primarily, to see the Alps. Of course, just by the mere fact that it was raining we knew that the clouds would certainly foil any hope that we had on seeing such sights. Upon arriving in Lucerne, our first priority was locating a clothing store within the upscale-version-New-Towne-Mall shopping center found inside the trainstation (this is normal in most large European train stations) to buy a raincoat slash sweater. While packing for our trip to Europe, we had anticipated Ohio weather... 70's... capris, short sleeves, maybe a pair of slacks or two... but the unusual weather was at least 15 degrees colder than usual... not to mention the rain and brisk wind gusts. The seemingly simple task of buying a sweater became an hour long escapade of going in and out of stores--not finding what we needed (or when we did, were so offended by the price tag). Mom bought a light jacket and I bought a thick zip up sweatshirt.
We toured the lakeside via boat (where we enjoyed the upperdeck first class seats, thank you very much!), enjoyed what we could see of the village and castles while indulging in apple tartes and peppermint tea. Of course, as all moving vehicles seemed to enduce, I slept :) On this boat were a couple from England... I would place them in their upper 60s. However, it wasn't until we asked the gentleman to take our picture that we noticed he looked EXACTLY like Prince Charles--the ears, the hair, the voice... EVERYTHING was a perfect match. It made me wonder if perhaps all British older men look like Prince Charles.
After docking the boat, we walked around the city in the rain. We gazed upon the oldest bridge in Switzerland (where people come from all over to be married on) and gawked and gasped at the insanely priced Swiss watches (some priced over 17,000 Euro!!!!!).
We took the train back where Remi met us to take us back to the "castle" (as we had begun to refer to it). After washing and warming up, Jacqueline once again joined us for dinner at the flat. Remi made us pasta, in preparation for what we'd encounter in Italy: slightly undercooked to the American palette. He whipped up this amazing spiced tomatoe sauce from scratch, which I simply could not get enough of... there was, of course, cheese, bread, salad, salami, and the California Ravenwood wine we had bought Remi as a host gift.
During dinner, Remi asked if mom and I were perhaps part-Swiss, part-Camel. Mom and I were puzzled by this question until he further explained that we had such trouble finishing our wine that he thought we had it stored somewhere in us! We had a good laugh about that. It was also during this dinner that I discovered how difficult it is for non-Americans to say the word "thirty." Jacqueline and Remi went on and on about how hard it is to make the "th" sound (English is one of the few languages who even use that sound) and kept saying "Tirty." I suppose it's the same as the trouble we Americans have learning foreign language sounds... in French it's the throaty "r's" and in German it's the achlauts and the ichlauts, and the umlauts.
Being surrounded by the French language and this particular Swiss dialect, I was able to catch on quick. The 4 years of high school french came whooshing back, and after a few days I could carry on a decent conversation with Remi. I still am awaiting the day I have a dream in French, although I fear that day is loooong away (particularly having to live in a German speaking country for 4 months....). This Swiss-French dialect is slightly different than the French I learned in high school--not every syllable is as defined and there is more accentuation on the gluttural "r's".
After dinner it was out to the Festival again. The original plan was to stay in Lucerne and attend the world renowned Lucerne Music Festival. HOWEVER, the only tickets that were left were 290 Euro... Sorry bout ya, but it ain't happenin! Then, we wanted to go to a free concert in Neuchatel, in this acoustically amazing "cave" of sorts--pas de place--no more seats. Then, Jacqueline's partner, Christophe (who works for an art museum) recommended we go to a contemporary music festival. BUUUUT by the time we got there, it was over, and the artists and musicians were standing around enjoying champagne and beers with their patrons. I did get a chance to walk around the art exhibit for a bit... and I did enjoy some interesting contemporary art, including strewn paper airplanes thrown at a bullseye and a molded clay penis. Yes, you heard me.
Remi took us on a quick nighttime tour of the city--to the ports, the lake, the courtyards (which were full of lovers, let me tell you it was gross) and the houses, the castles, and the mansions that frequented this particular street.
Then it was back home and off to bed... preparing for an early morning at the market and a trip to Remi's chalet in the mountains.
Stay tuned to the next few posts where I will catch you up further :)
Love and miss you all very much!!!
Laura
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